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Many professional home inspectors consider weatherization when they inspect the interiors of houses. Newer homes tend to have much tighter and better insulated building envelopes. There are a host of energy efficient upgrades available to existing homes though some of them will take a very long time in returning the investment. The unknowing do it yourself runs the risk of blocking up critical attic ventilation and even setting up fire hazards when insulating over lighting fixtures that project through the ceiling into attic floor insulation.

Up until about 1935, plaster on wood lath was the most common finish material for walls and ceilings. That plaster often weighed about as much as concrete and with the typical 1/4 inch ceiling, was prone to falling suddenly. God help any person or nice piece of furniture beneath such a fall.

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The scene here shows a 3/4 inch tongue and groove hardwood oak floor being installed as a retrofit in an older home. The wooden flooring was delivered and stored in the house for approximately one week to allow the wood to adjust to the humidity level in the house.

Note the diagonal subflooring. Note also the underlayment used beneath the flooring being installed. That underlayment serves as a slip sheet between the new flooring and the old sub-flooring and as a dust and air movement preventer. In most cases, an installation like this will leave a small gap all around the ends of the flooring to accommodate potential movements due to moisture changes.

In this particular case the original oak flooring had a lot of pet staining which could not be mitigated. Given the extensive nature of the staining, no attempts were made to poultice the stains or sand them out. The new flooring being installed would have to be sanded and finished. As the finish materials are applied and dried, a grain rise is anticipated, and hence cut down, usually with a special disc under a buffer.





Recent Video | How to Install Solid Hardwood Floors

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